FJORDING

TASIILAQ FJORD TO QINGERTIVAQ VIA SERMILIK FJORD, EAST GREENLAND

The map is not the territory. We guess our way through this glacier-mangled landscape, so much more complex and immense than we imagined. Surging ice-choked tides, spongy spring-fed tundra, thinning cliff ledges and labyrinthine lateral moraines baffle our route-finding. Icebergs explode below precarious footholds and derail our concentration.

Dynamic geology rewires our sensibility and eventually sets us on track. We become ice-fjord people, less regimented, more free-flowing.